Adventures in South Africa with toddlers in tow

Holly Tuppen - 5 Oct 17

“People are starting to stare. I think you need to take him away”, muttered my husband swigging back his glass of South African Sauvignon like his life depends on it (which it might).  Our one-year-old is screaming the hotel terrace down because we won’t let him throw chips all over the floor.

“Can you take him?”, I retort, gesturing to the now cold corn fritters, which I’ve spent the last 20 minutes trying to eat.

Our three-year-old picks this moment to pull his pants down and wee all over the terrace, just missing the feet of our mild-mannered waiter, who has come to pick up the chips.  I quickly whisk the younger one away; the screamer is the better half of the deal this time.

This is just one of the many moments that makes travelling with young children so special. And why having a sense of humour is imperative to a successful family holiday — alongside relentless energy and zero expectation of sun-bathing or book reading.

On a recent two-week road trip around the Western Cape, staying within a two-hour drive of Cape Town, our itinerary was so action-packed that we achieved all three of these things admirably. If you keep busy seeing new things, there’s no time to do anything other than enjoying the whirlwind adventure altogether.  Throw in some world-class wine to aid the sense of humour, and you’ve got the holiday of a lifetime.

Sounds like just what you need? Check out these top family-friendly spots:

Vineyard Hotel, Cape Town

The scene of the above-mentioned crime, The Vineyard has been around long enough to take such drama in their stride. This iconic hotel gets full marks for old-school charm, family-friendly interconnecting rooms and an eco-ethos. Surrounded by mountains in the leafy suburb of Claremont, it’s impossible to imagine that you are only 20 minutes from the CBD of Cape Town. Watching the sun go down behind Table Mountain National Park from the hotel terrace is a view I will always remember. With toddlers, it’s the little things that you remember — like the kids being welcomed with gifts of Mandela and the Hare storybooks, Wilf playing grown up at his own mini buffet table at breakfast and tracking down tortoises in the meandering gardens.

More Quarters, Cape Town 

However well it goes (in our case ‘going well’ was getting no sleep and being covered in vomit), a 10-hour flight with little ones always takes its toll. Head straight to boutique apart-hotel More Quarters to recover — here you will be welcomed by a soothing lounge, the friendliest of staff and homemade ice tea. Apartments vary from three to one bed, tucked down a pretty cobbled street off trendy Kloof Street. Not only are you bang in the middle of Cape Town but More Quarters have thought of everything when it comes to kids: toys (bespoke to ages), cots, high chairs, snacks, shuttles and babysitters. This is the perfect spot to live like a local — head to Black Sheep up the road for craft ales, let the kids make their own pizzas at Café Paradiso and get involved in the local street party ‘First Thursday’.

The Tarragon, Cape Town 

Hout Bay is a great base to appreciate the slower side of Cape Town — this seaside suburb is sandwiched between the vineyards of Constantia, the beaches and wildlife of the Cape Peninsula and the glamour of Camps Bay and Clifton. The Tarragon is a collection of budget-friendly apartments kitted out for families. The communal gardens are home to wondering wild-fowl, mountain views and pretty nooks for a braai or sundowner. Kids will love the pool and giant purple giraffe statues and parents will love how safe and peaceful it feels. Mark, the owner, is wonderfully laid back giving The Tarragon a relaxed home-from-home vibe.

Slaley Cottage, Airbnb, Langebaan

Stepping inside Slaley Cottage was like entering the seaside retreat of my dreams. This one-story stone cottage with a corrugated iron roof — all whites and blues with wonky wooden floors and cosy wicker furniture — is one of the few remaining old-style holiday villas in Langebaan.  With the beach for a garden and surf shops, bars and pizza joints just a five-minute walk down the road, there’s no need to travel far. The lack of mod cons (there’s no TV or wifi) makes the whole family drift into an easy-going pace of sand, sun and sea.

Bartholomeus Klip, Hermon 

Before you get too relaxed on the beach, head inland for some adventures in ‘big sky’ country.  The road trip is all part of the fun and if my three-year-old wasn’t squealing with delight at the volume of tractors coming out of Malmesbury, he was relishing in the fact we were “LOST IN THE DESERT” (the reality involved a mild detour off road courtesy of our blind faith in Google Maps).

Bartholomeus Klip is a 10,000-hectare reserve where families can sink into the peaceful comfort of the Wild Olive House, a self-catering cottage next to the reserve’s Victorian Lodge. Never have 24 hours felt more content: we kayaked across the damn; spotted zebra, ostriches and bontebok on game drives; had running races into the wilderness; romantic dinners in the lodge; and were catered for by the biggest smiles and spectacular amounts of homemade food.

Mosaic Private Sanctuary, Stanford

Back towards the coast, this time in the other direction. Perfect for families of all ages, Mosaic’s self-catering abodes include a huge house overlooking Hermanus lagoon and several smaller ones surrounded by wildlife-filled fynbos. Teetering on the edge of the water and just moments from the wild dunes of Walker Bay, the constantly changing landscape is reason alone to visit.  The Mosaic Lagoon Lodge, built around ancient milkwood trees, is a magical spot for sundowners, spa treatments and a romantic dinner, and we were all happy as can be being taken down to the beach for canapes, beers and sandboarding by our gregarious guide, Marcio.

I’m not going to lie, we returned from South Africa totally exhausted. The boys found it quite hard getting back into our home routines and London seemed dull. Two weeks easily felt like a month and we’d drifted into being an adventuring team. Gasping for joy at zebras, giggling at baboon bottoms, making friends with other three-year-old digging enthusiasts on the beach and driving through new lands all together was by far one of the most brilliant things we’ve ever done; no levels of exhaustion could ever put me off.

For more information about things to do with kids in Cape Town head to the tourist board’s family guide. If you want your adventures planned for you, ask Africa experts Sally & Alice and for more accommodation options try trusted source i-escape.com.

Holly Tuppen

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